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It used to be, in the olden days, that wine was thought to be bottled geography. You knew that if you opened a bottle of traditional Shiraz from The Hunter or a Cabernet from Coonawarra, you could be pretty certain that, for better or worse, rustic barnyards and peppermint patties would make an appearance. If your aged Riesling had a touch of kerosine and the freshness of your eighty year old Liquer Tokay left you trembling, your minds GPS would re-direct you from the stoney slopes of Clare to the baking plains of Rutherglen. Wine, it seemed, was deemed to be all about geography. If you wanted to grow Semillion, a site in the Lower Hunter was where you chose; Marsanne meant a paddock near Nagambie in central Victoria. Pinot Noir..well that, as now meant Burgundy.
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